Marko ostal na Everestu

PD 23. maj, 2005
232
Marko ostal na Everestu
Sreda 18.05.2005 ob 08.30: ZDAJ BOMA PA POčASI ODŠLA. POZDRAVI VSE. RAD VAS IMAM, POLJUB MARKO

Marko ostal na Everestu

To je bilo zadnje sporočilo, ko sta z Vikijem odhajala na GORO, ki si jo je tako želel. Prav nič ga ni ustavilo pri tem njegovem načrtu. Z Vikijem sta bila zelo dobra ekipa. Oba umirjena, s pametjo na pravem mesu in polna idej. Kot je rekel vodja odprave Abramov, če je kdo sposoben po tem dolgem čakanju iti prvi proti vrhu, sta to Marko in Viki, ker sta najmočnejši del odprave.

Ves čas priprav na odpravo sem tako padla v samo zadevo, da sem enostavno tudi sam vzpon na goro podoživljala z njima, kot da sem tam. Marko na vrhu ni bil sam, bil je z mano, mojo družino z prijatelji, ki so ga vseskozi spremljali preko interneta in misli.
V taboru so naredili vse, da bi ga našli. Po včerajšnjih zadnjih vesteh, bi naj kitajska odprava, ki je bila na vrhu, na višini 8.800 m našla truplo, ki naj bi po opisih bilo Markovo. Ko me je poklica Viki, sem ga bila zelo vesela. Vem kaj je Marko čutil do njega in kako rad ga je imel.

Viki, ko boš to bral vedi, da smo zelo veseli, da si se vrnil in da boš lahko mojima otrokoma razložil kako lepo sta se imela. Pridi varno domov in mi prinesi spomine, ki nam bodo pomagali v teh časih.

NAMASTE MARKO, VEDNO BOM S TEBOJ.

Hvala vsem, ki ste ga v življenju podpirali pri njegovih visokih ciljih, drznih sanjah, mu stali ob strani ali kakor koli bili z njim povezani. Imel vas je rad. Sovražnikov nikoli ni imel.

Marjana


Opis osvojitve vrha in sporočila o tem, da je Marko pogrešan (v angleščini - neprevedeno):

http://www.mounteverest.net/story/MissingMarko-Chineseclimbersfindsbodyat8800May222005.shtml

May 22, 2005 14: 26 EST
This from Alex/Kikstra team:

22.05.2005 at 17.00 Victor Mliner & Vladimir Lande arrived to ABC. They feel well. Chinese expedition sherpas found body of a climber at the altitude of 8800 m. This body looks as Marko. Six sherpas, which climbed together with the members arrived to ABC. Pasang Dorji has a frost bite on his right hand.

Here follows the chronological report of the Everest ascent 21st May 2005, International team 7summits-club/7summits.com.

Direct radio contact between BC & ABC is problematic due to the geographical position of the camps. So most communication is being made using satellite phone.

Following are the (translated) txt messages we received in Basecamp from our expedition leader Alexander Abramov (who is in ABC) with the information about the summit push and the resulting events.

- Message 1, 21-05-05 15:00

½21st of May, 03.00 China Time Slovenian climbers Marko Lihteneker & Viktor Mlinar and Russian climber Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa Pasang Dorji left camp 3 at 8300m for the summit.
The very strong Slovenian guys went ahead. Near 2nd step Vladimir had crampon problems and went down together with his Sherpa. The Slovenians continued up.

At 14.00 Sherpa Rengin arrived at Camp 3 to provide any assistance to the summit climbers if needed.½


- Message 2: 21-05-05 17:00

½Today at 12.30 Viktor Mlinar summited Mount Everest; one hour later Marko Lihteneker arrived at the summit. Weather was good, Viktor arrived back at 8300m camp at 16.00.½


- Message 3: 21-05-05 21:30

½Viktor says that Marko left the summit approximately one hour after him, but at 21:30 Marko has not arrived at the camp 3, 8300m, where Viktor is waiting.
The weather is bad now, it is snowing and there is high wind speed. The Sherpa can not go up, even with oxygen the situation is not good.½


- Message 4: 21-05-05 22:00

½We hope that Marko has arrived in one of the many other tents at the 8300m camp.
Nobody has summited from the South Side.½

- Message 5: 22-05-05 14:00

½Today 22nd of may, at 05.00 two of our most powerful Sherpas, Pemba Tensing and Pemba Rengin, went up with oxygen on maximum flow of 4 liters per minute, searching for Marko on the ridge above 8300m.
9 other high altitude Sherpas are in ABC, ready to go up if needed. The Sherpas have checked all tents in camp 3, 8300, and in all camps around 7700 as well as on the North Col, but Marko was not found there.

Today, about 20 Chinese climbers summited Everest, but they also have not seen Marko. We have asked the Chinese team to look out for Marko when descending.
Vladimir and Victor and the 2 sherpas are now at the North col, Vladimir is feeling good, Victor is reasonably ok.½

On behalf of the 7summits-club/7summits.com expedition,

Alexander Abramov
Harry Kikstra

This year, Alex Abramov has joined hands with Harry Kikstra of 7summits.com, forming the 7summits-club. Other climbing leaders are Nikolay Cherni who has 6, 8000ers and was a co-leader of the Russian Central North wall expedition last year, and extra guide Ivan Dus. The entire expedition offers a full service outfit with 11 climbing Sherpas (all Everest summiters), and an expedition Doc. There are 18 expedition members in total.

Iskanje